That looks delicious.

Once again, some of the best recipes are the simplest. One of my favorite ways to cook chicken, however, is far more complicated so I tend to only do it for special occasions. Chinese-style salt-baked chicken is delicious and always pulls in compliments, which is helpful as my ego needs constant reassurance.

Take one chicken, rub it down generously with either a very good grade of rice wine (Chinese rice wine has more body and a deeper flavor than sake) or, my favorite, the beguilingly named Confucious Family Liquor (it has a strong anise flavor and is made, I believe, from millet; it also packs a helluva punch) and let the chicken sit in the refrigerator overnight.

The next day, pour about five pounds of rock salt into a large pot over medium heat, stirring it occasionally to heat the salt. While the salt is warming up, soak and wring out thoroughly three or four feet of cheesecloth (Even better if you can get them, use banana leaves). When it's completely wrung out, wrap it around the chicken so that the body of the bird is encased in at least a few layers of cheesecloth.

Pour half the heated salt into a wok or a Romertopf (or some other deep clay pot with a lid), and create a depression in the salt in which the wrapped chicken can rest. If you're going to use the clay pot, preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Now pour the rest of the salt over the chicken, encasing it completely. Place the lid on the pot and pop it into the oven, calculating the time by multiplying the weight of the bird at about 20 minutes per pound. If you're using a wok, follow the same directions for preparing the chicken as with the clay pot, cover it with a lid that will accommodate the bird and place the filled wok over a high flame for about ten minutes, and then reduce it to low. Figure about 20 minutes per pound, as well.

When the chicken is done, it's incredibly fragrant and flavorful - not at all salty - but the texture is the most interesting part. The skin does not brown, but it firms up beautifully and the flesh is firm and tender.

For maximum effect, remove the chicken from the salt but leave it wrapped until you get it to the table. The smell of the steam rising from the bird as you cut open the wrapping is great and the presentation always impresses guests.